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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 10, 2015 9:27:21 GMT -5
The YF series was developed to accommodate a number of different models of motors for a number of different Manufacturers. Not just Kaiser-Willys, but Ford, Chevrolet and General Motors products. One must look to the vertical rib behind the linkage to determine which model carb one has. This is especially important when it comes to ordering a rebuild kit or other parts.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Aug 3, 2015 4:33:49 GMT -5
Adjusting the Metering rod on your YF
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Post by Norris on Oct 7, 2016 16:02:13 GMT -5
I've a '62 CJ5 134F Carter YF. Compression check reveals 125 on each cylinder. Vaccuum gauge needle is steady but low at 15 at idle. My problem is that the only way to smooth out the idle at 650 rpm is to adjust the idle mixture screw all of the in. If I adjust it out any at all the engine will run very rough then die. Even with the mixture screw adjusted all the way in and idling smoothly it will die after about 60 seconds or so. It easily starts right up then the cycle starts again. I cannot find a vacuum leak by spraying starting fluid. The PVC valve is clean. Valves adjusted to .018 intake and .016 exhaust. Any ideas?
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Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 7, 2016 16:11:43 GMT -5
Okay. If I read you correctly, you have to adjust the mixture FULL LEAN (needle all the way IN) in order to achieve a smooth idle. If this is correct, the problem is too much fuel through the idle circuit. I suspect either an over-sized low speed jet or a metering rod set too high. However, you state you have NO vacuum issues. But the 15 Hg reading leads me to believe that you are probably using some choke to keep it idling. Use of the choke will mask some vacuum leaks.
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Post by Norris on Oct 7, 2016 17:45:20 GMT -5
That's correct, needle all the way in is the only way I can get the idle to smooth out. Not using choke to keep it running...choke all the way off. I cannot find a vacuum leak. There may be one somewhere, but can't find it.
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Post by Norris on Oct 7, 2016 17:49:10 GMT -5
The Jeep is totally original except for an electric fuel pump. It only has 18000 miles and the engine has never been into other than the valve adjustments.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 8, 2016 3:52:24 GMT -5
I must ask. Exactly which YF carburetor are you using? And what is the fuel pressure and flow out of the pump?
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Post by norris on Oct 8, 2016 7:38:38 GMT -5
YF938SD. 3.5lbs out of the regulator.
Where do you hook up a vacuum gauge on the engines? I pulled a 1/4" plug out of the base of the carb and replaced it with a vacuum fitting so I could hook up the vacuum gauge. I obviously plug it with a vacuum cap when not using the gauge. I don't think this location is pulling enough vacuum to get an accurate reading. This morning I thought I would rig up a vacuum tee on the intake manifold under the carb where the PVC line goes in......would this work better? I'm sure the vacuum signal will be stronger.
Anyway, this isn't fixing my problem, but I thought I might ask.
Thanks so much for your time ,
Norris
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Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 8, 2016 9:24:52 GMT -5
You are correct. The plug in the throttle base is to connect the vacuum advance in a distributor. A “T” in the manifold is preferred.
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Post by norris on Oct 8, 2016 12:04:57 GMT -5
Thanks. I'm setting the float level and adjusting the metering rod now while looking for vacuum leaks. I've set the float level as per specs and now have fuel coming out of the vent tube! I'm missing something and it's wearing me out! No one has a kit here. Where's the best place to get a good kit?
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Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 8, 2016 12:55:01 GMT -5
Float level setting is dependent on the design/construction of the needle. Brass needle - 5/16”. VITON-tipped 9/32”. Don’t forget to place the rubber gasket for the long pump arm. The thin metal gasket protector that fits on to of the gasket is usually missing. What do you have it set to? Good, new, complete reproduction kits come from Mike’s Carburetors. NOS kits that aren’t as complete, but are good quality can be purchased from Peter DeBella. Pete’s NOS kits are the only ones I can find with solid brass needles. But they don’t have a new Idle Mixture Screw. All others, including Mike’s have VITON-tipped needles.
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Post by norris on Oct 8, 2016 15:00:48 GMT -5
Thanks friend. I'll see if I can get it close while I have time this weekend but will go ahead and order a kit Monday.
Beautiful weather here in west Texas!
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Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 9, 2016 4:12:20 GMT -5
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Post by Epilitimus on May 25, 2021 13:54:10 GMT -5
My apologies for the wall of text.
I have an old Hyster forklift I am bringing back to life. It has a Continental six cylinder flat head engine (I don't have the model at hand at the moment but can get it if it is important) with a Carter YF-1 3200S carb. I was told when I acquired the forklift that the carb had been replaced at some point and I have no idea how much that person knew about carbs. The forklift sat outside over the winter for many years and so the float bowl of the carb had lots of crud/rust/varnish etc in it.
The engine starts and runs fine. The carb however has a few issues. First the float system is all but in-operable. to shut the engine down I turn off a ball valve I installed in the fuel line until the engine runs out of gas. If I don't gas leaks all over the manifolds, inside and out, even though I have replaced the fuel tank/pump with a small gravity feed tank so I could tell how much gas was in it. Second the hole for the throttle plate shaft is worn out to the point where fuel running down the inside of the carb runs out the hole. As for the accelerator pump...it's there, doesn't do anything though. In addition there are several screws missing/stripped from the float chamber cover. All in all it is a testament to how well these carbs were designed that the engine runs at all. It is definitely on my "how was that still running" list. As I said the engine starts and runs fine. Other than using about a gallon of gas in half an hour of idling and raw gas dribbling onto the exhaust manifold I would probably leave it alone.
So my options as I see them at this point:
1. Put the carb on my milling machine, bore out the throttle shaft hole, put in a sleeve, helicoil the stripped cover screws, find a rebuild kit somewhere and see what happens.
2. Try to source a rebuilt 3200S. But I'm cheap, and they are expensive.
3. I did find a used 3200S on ebay for $100+ but I have no way to know that if I spend the money I won't end up in just as bad a spot (did I mention that I'm cheap?) There are also new carbs that claim to fit the make and model of jeep the 3200S was used on, but I'm not using it on a jeep so I don't know if they will work on my engine. The carbs I am looking at are in the $70-$80 range and I'm not opposed to spend that for a new carb if I know it will work.
I am kind of at the in between stage re: my knowledge about carbs in that I know the basic principles involved and have successfully rebuilt a number of them with rebuild kits. But I don't know what details I don't know I need to know to make a reasonable decision, if that makes sense. My reason for using the 3200S as my baseline, even though it is not what the forklift came with, is that I know it works.
So I guess what I'm looking for is some pointers, thoughts, ideas on how to proceed.
Any help is appreciated. Even of the "go ask your question over there" variety.
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Post by Scoutpilot on May 25, 2021 15:41:43 GMT -5
Have you looked for the correct carb?
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